DIY Kit Instructions

Installation Overview

Watch this video for a quick overview of what it takes to install the kit.

Play Video

A few important things to note before you start:

  • Read everything carefully and follow instructions
  • If using multiple kits, do not connect them together with any wires.
  • Always unplug the box when doing any wiring
  • This will take time and possibly some troubleshooting to install

We are always trying to improve the instructions, so if you have suggestions (or questions), please send an email to support@shawtechlighting.com

 WARNING

Failure to follow these instructions and wire everything correctly may result in a potential fire hazard and damage to the LEDs and/or controller

DO NOT DO ANY WIRING WITH THE BOX PLUGGED IN!

Item Quantity Description
Controller Box1Used to power and control your LEDs. Typically installed inside your garage.
Power Cable1Used to provide power to the controller box
LED Strands
100 FT Kit
150 FT Kit
200 FT Kit

2
3
4
100 LEDs per strand with 6-inch spacing (50ft per strand).
Black Data Cable50 FT18/3 cable used to connect the LEDs to the controller box and to make jumps between LEDs.
Gray Injection Cable
100 FT Kit
150 FT Kit
200 FT Kit

150 FT
200 FT
250 FT
18/2 cable (16/2 if 200ft kit) used to provide additional power at the end of every LED strand. This will be run inside the channel with the LEDs.
Heat Shrink Butt Connectors40Used to splice 2 wires together, such as when you need to make a jump between LEDs.
Wago Connectors10Used to splice 3 or more wires together.
Heat Shrink2 FTUsed to ensure a water-tight connection when using Wago connectors.
6-inch Measuring Tool1Used to mark your channel every 6 inches before drilling holes.
Wire Strippers
(Purchased Separately)
1Used to strip wires and crimp butt connectors.
Tin Snips
(Purchased Separately)
1Used to cut the channel
12mm Drill Bit
(Purchased Separately)
1Used to drill 12mm into your channel for the LEDs.

Does NOT Include

J-Channel Trim
This is what we suggest you use. It must have a width of at least 0.75" at the base and a height of 1.50". You can use different channel, but we don't guarantee the same results.

Here are some links to help you find the channel you need:

J-Channel Vinyl Siding Trim - Home Depot
J-Channel Vinyl Siding Trim - Lowe's
The Foundry 3/4 Inch Vinyl J Channel
CertainTeed 3/4 Inch Vinyl J Channel
Polaris 3/4 Inch Vinyl J Channel

Screws
You will use these to attach the channel to your house. Just about any screw will do.

The first step is to connect the controller to your home Wi-Fi.

Play Video

Connect To the Controller Box

  1. Plug the controller box into an outlet. A light will turn on, and it will broadcast its own Wi-Fi access point.
  2. Using a mobile device (such as a laptop, tablet, or phone), search for and connect to the WLED-AP Wi-Fi Network.
  3. Enter the following password: wled1234
  4.  If it prompts you to sign-in or allow it access to your network, allow it.

Change WLED WiFI Settings

Now that you are connected to the WLED-AP Wi-Fi network, it should automatically open the "Welcome to WLED!" screen.

If it doesn't, open a web browser and enter http://4.3.2.1 into the address bar.

  1. Tap WiFi Settings
  2. Enter your WiFi Name (SSID) and password.
  3. Tap Save & Connect.

It will then reconnect you to your home Wi-Fi network and WLED-AP should no longer be visible as an available network.

Download and Configure WLED

Download the WLED Native app onto your iOS or Android device. Make sure you download the correct version.

Open the WLED Native App, It should show you all the controllers connected to your home Wi-Fi network.

  1. Tap anywhere on the name or IP address to access this controller.
  1. From the Home Screen, click Config (gear).
  2. Click on LED Preferences
  1. Maximum Current:
    - If 100 FT, set it to 5800mA
    - If 150 FT, set it to 5000mA
    - If 200 FT, set it to 5300mA
    Note:  These are the maximum currents for each kit. If you notice inconsistent colors, try lowering the maximum current. We also suggest using the warm-white (the tan color next to white) instead of normal white, as it uses less power and generally looks better.

    If using multiple kits, you may need to adjust the current of each kit to get the brightness to match.

     

  2. Verify the LED Voltage is set to 12V (30mA).

 

  1. Scroll down to LED Outputs and verify that WS281x is selected.
  2. Verify the Color Order is set to RGB.
  3. Verify the Length is set to 300. This is the total number of LEDs. After you have finished installing the kit, you will need to adjust this to match the total number of LEDs you used.
  4. Verify GPIO is set to 32.
  5. Scroll up to the top and click Save.

VERIFY EVERYTHING IS WORKING AND THE CONTROLLER IS CONNECTED TO YOUR WI-FI NETWORK PRIOR TO CUTTING ANY WIRES.

DO NOT DO ANY WIRING WITH THE BOX PLUGGED IN!

After setting up the software, we want to test everything. Knowing with 100% certainty that everything worked before installing the kit will help with any potential troubleshooting needed later on.

Test your controller box and every strand of LEDs in your kit:

  1. Attach the LED connector to black cable using the wago lever connectors. (See image below for which wires go together)
  2. Plug the LEDs into the black data cable.
  3. Plug the black data cable into the control box.
  4. Plug the control box into an outlet.

If the lights turn orange, you're good to go! If they don't, check again to make sure everything is connected properly. If you aren't able to get it working, contact us for assistance at support@shawtechlighting.com.

Feel free to play around with WLED and the lights!

Note: Don't leave the lights on with the black cable coiled up for very long, as it will cause the coiled cable to heat up due to inductance. 

Adding the LED connector to the black data cable.

General Tips

The layout will vary from house to house. Here are some things to keep in mind when planning the layout:

  • Lights should run from one side to the other (left to right, or right to left).
  • Avoid branching if possible.
  • Avoid making jumps between sections of lights as much as possible.
  • The control box must be no more than 30 feet from the first LED.
    - Common locations are in the garage or under the eaves near an outlet.
    - Make sure you have a good WiFi signal at that location.

Making Branches

It's best to avoid branches because LEDs after the branch will share an ID with another LED, so you will not be able to control them separately.

Example (See Image): You have 5 LEDs that branch after the 2nd LED. The first two LEDs have their own unique ID, but the remaining 3 on each line after the branch share an ID. Telling LED #1 or #2 to turn blue will do that and work fine. If you want to turn LED #3, 4, or 5 to blue then it will turn LEDS of both branch lines to blue. 

The lights of the branch should run in the same general direction as the rest of the lights. Otherwise, so effects might look odd.

Layout Examples

Below are some examples (click on images to enlarge). The arrows indicate the direction of the lights.

  • Go from one side of the house to the other
  • If you have two floors and two kits, use a kit for each floor.
  • If you have two floors and a single kit, go one direction on the main floor, then jump to the second floor and go the opposite direction.

Blue Square = Control Box
Red Lines = LED Strands
Yellow Lines = Jumps between LEDs

The method you use to attach the LEDs to your house is up to you. We recommend using vinyl J-channel because it's inexpensive and simple to use. Below are several examples of how you can use J-channel to install your lights.

Roof Terminology

The examples below will use these terms:

Eaves - This is the part of your roof that hang over the side of the walls.

Soffit - This is the underside of the eaves. Often it is metal panels that are used. The soffit is part of the eaves.

Fascia - This is the outside edge of the eaves. The fascia is considered part of the eaves.

Inside Edge of Soffit

Pros

  • Very easy to install
  • Very discrete

Cons

  • Needs extra effort to tuck wires into the channel
  • Not as visible at night from some angles

Other Notes

  • You can often slide the J-channel between the soffit and the small strip of metal that supports the soffit
  • If there is a gap between the wall and the channel like in this image, you can cut the long edge of the J-channel so that it's closer to U-channel. Test it with a small piece of J-channel before you cut everything.

Outside Fascia

Pros

  • Easy to hide wires
  • Visible from most angles at night

Cons

  • Not as discrete up close, but still not noticeable from a distance.

Other Notes

  • Most J-channel will have markings on it, so you may need to paint over them.
  • If you have rain gutters, sometimes you can slide the J-channel between the gutter and the fascia.

Backside of Eave Fascia

Pros

  • Very discrete - You can barely see them from the front.

Cons

  • Wires visible from the back side. You may need to use glue or tape to hold the wires in the channel.

Other Notes

  • If your eaves are designed similarly to these, this is probably your best option.

Outside Edge of Soffit

Pros

  • Visible from most angles at night

Cons

  • Wires visible from the back side. You may need to use glue or tape to hold the wires in the channel.

Other Notes

  • This would look best if you find some way to cover the back side so you can't see the wires as much.

The J-channel needs to have 12mm holes drilled every 6 inches. You will then insert LEDs into these holes and then attach it to your eaves. You can either drill all the holes now, or you can do it as you go attaching the channel to your eaves.

Play Video

Measuring and Drilling

  1. Starting 3 inches from the edge, make a mark in the center of the channel every 6 inches. You can use the plastic 6 inch measuring tool to help mark the channel. If using a thicker tipped marker, make sure to account for that when using the tool.
  2. Using the 12mm step drill bit, drill holes where you previously marked the channel. Drill all the way through, using the largest step on the bit.
  3. Remove any burrs after drilling the holes.
  4. (Optional) If your channel doesn't have any slots or holes for screws, you can drill them yourself using a small drill.
  5. (Optional) If you couldn't find channel in the desired color, you can spray paint it. You may need to rough it up with a scotch pad beforehand so the paint adheres better.

Tip: If you bought 12-13ft pieces of channel, it's often easier to install them onto your house if you cut them in half first. 

Where to Install

  • Install in a dry location, such as in your garage or somewhere under the eaves near a power outlet. It is splash resistant but not waterproof.
  • Install in a location with a strong WiFi signal from your home's WiFi. Verify you have a strong signal before installing the box.
  • Install in a location no more than 30 feet from your first LED in order to prevent signal loss issues.
  • Do not install in hot attics.

How to Install

Make sure the box is unplugged any time you open the lid.

  1. Remove the cover by removing the screws.
  2. Mount the controller box by driving a screw through each of the corner holes.
  3. Reattach the cover to the box.
  4. (Optional) If you are mounting the box inside your garage, you will need to drill a hole through the outside wall of the garage in order to run cables to the LEDs.
  5. (Optional) Using a surge protector is recommended to better protect your equipment.
The mounting holes are located in the corners of the box.

 WARNING

Failure to follow these instructions and wire everything correctly may result in a potential fire hazard and damage to the LEDs and/or controller

DO NOT DO ANY WIRING WITH THE BOX PLUGGED IN!

Play Video

Heat Shrink Butt Connectors

Heat shrink butt connectors will be used any time you need to splice 2 wires together, such as when making jumps.

  1. Remove 1/4" of insulation off the wires using an 18 AWG wire stripperIf you have a 200FT kit, use 16 AWG on the gray injection cable.
  2. Insert the wire into one end of the butt connector.
  3. Crimp down on that half of the connector using the crimp on the strippers marked 22-18.
  4. Give the wire a tug to verify it is crimped correctly.
  5. Repeat these steps for the second wire, using the opposite side of the connector.
  6. Use a heat gun or lighter to shrink the heat shrink on each end.

Note: If using these with LED wires, we recommend stripping them extra long and folding them over to give the connector a bit more wire to grip.

Heat Shrink Butt Connectors

Wago Connectors

Wago connectors will be used any time you need to splice 3 wires together, such as when making a branch. They are large enough to insert two wires into one side and a single wire on the opposite side of the connector.

  1. Remove 3/8" of insulation of the wires that need to be connected.
  2. If inserting two wires into a single slot of the connector, twist them together.
  3. Lift up the levers on the connector
  4. Insert wires as far as they will go and close the lever.
  5. Give the wires a tug to verify they are clamped down correctly.

Note: To waterproof this connection better, use heat shrink around each connector. You may need to squeeze the ends of the heat shrink around the wires using pliers. 

Wago Connectors
Different style of Wago connectors

For now, only install your first section of lights. After installing the first piece, we will want to verify they are working correctly.

Play Video

Attach Channel to Your Eaves

Insert the LEDs into one piece of channel at a time as you are installing it on your house. This will help you install the LEDs in the correct direction and reduce the potential for other mistakes.

  1. Using the tin snips, cut the piece of J-channel to the length you need.
  2. Verify the channel is oriented the correct way and start inserting the LEDs, starting from the beginning of the strand (the side with the male connector).
  3. Insert the LEDs into the channel holes one by one. There is a notch on them that will lock them into the channel. Using pliers may make it easier. Avoid twisting or pinching the wires, as it may cause premature failure.
  4. Attach the channel to your eaves using one screw every three or four feet. Only install the first piece of channel for now.

 WARNING

Failure to follow these instructions and wire everything correctly may result in a potential fire hazard and damage to the LEDs and/or controller

DO NOT DO ANY WIRING WITH THE BOX PLUGGED IN!

Play Video

The controller box has a separate plug for data and power injection:

  • Data - This provides a data signal and power to the LEDs. Use the black data cable for this.
  • Power - This provides extra power to the LEDs. Use the gray injection cable for this.

Run the Data Cable to Your First LED

  1. Connect the black data cable to your controller box (the box should be installed already).
  2. Measure the distance of the from your controller box to the first LED strand and cut the data cable to length. Take into account any extra distance due to how you route it. The total length should be no more than 30 feet.

    Do not discard the remaining cable.

Attach the Female LED Connector

After you have cut the black data cable to the length you need to get from the controller box to the first LED, you will need to attach the female LED connector.

  1. Remove 2 inches of the cable jacket on the black data cable and strip 1/4" of insulation off the three wires.
  2. Take the female LED connector pigtail and strip 1/4" of insulation off the three wires.
  3. Using a butt connector, connect the following wires:
    - Black wire from the data cable
    - Blue wire from the female LED connector
  4. Using a 2nd butt connector, connect the following wires:
    - Red wire from the data cable
    Brown wire from the female LED connector
  5. Using a 3rd butt connector, connect the following wires:
    Green wire from the data cable
    Yellow/Green wire from the connector

Test the Connection

  1. Verify you attached the connector correctly.
  2. Plug your LEDs into the LED connector.
  3. Plug in your controller box. The LEDs should turn orange.

Install the rest of the LEDs on your house as instructed in Step 7 - Installing Lights. The steps after this point walk you through how to make jumps, branches, and power injections, so look at those prior to starting this step.

General Steps

  1. Cut the next piece of channel to length.
  2. Insert the LEDs into the channel.
  3. Attach the channel to your house.
  4. Run the gray injection cable alongside the lights inside the channel.
  5. Connect the strands together, injection power between each strand.
  6. Inject power at the very last LED.

Tips

Test after every connection. It will make troubleshooting easier.

  • Install the lights one section at a time.
  • Have at least 2 people installing the lights.
  • Tuck the gray injection cable underneath the LEDs to help keep it in place.
  • Do as much wiring on the ground as you can instead of a ladder, including inserting the gray injection cable.
  • Avoid twisting or bending the LED wires too much. This may cause them to fail prematurely. 
  • Make sure you are installing the LEDs in the correct direction. They have an input and output direction and won't work if reversed. Refer to the pictures below for LED direction.

 WARNING

Failure to follow these instructions and wire everything correctly may result in a potential fire hazard and damage to the LEDs and/or controller

DO NOT DO ANY WIRING WITH THE BOX PLUGGED IN!

You may need to make some jumps between sections that won't have lights. To do this, we will need to make a jumper cable using the extra black data cable.

Jumps should be no longer than 30 feet. If it's too long, you may run into signal loss issues and you won't be able to control your lights. To remedy these issues, you can either make the jump shorter or insert a Data Booster part way through the jump.

Play Video

Making a Jump

  1. Verify the controller box is not powered.
  2. Cut the black data cable to the length you need for the jump.
  3. On both ends of the cable, remove 2 inches of the outer jacket and strip the individual wires 1/4".
  4. Cut the LED strand in the middle of the two LEDs where you want to make the jump and separate the wires, stripping them 1/2" and then folding them back to give the connectors a bit more to grab on to.
  5. Using a butt connector, connect the following wires:
    - Black wire from the data cable
    - Blue wire from the LED strand
  6. Using a 2nd butt connector, connect the following wires:
    - Red wire from the data cable
    - Red wire from LED strand
  7. Using a 3rd butt connector, connect the following wires:
    Green wire from the data cable
    Green wire from the LED strand
  8. Use a heat gun or lighter to shrink the heat shrink on the connectors.
  9. Repeat these steps for the other end of the jump.

 WARNING

Failure to follow these instructions and wire everything correctly may result in a potential fire hazard and damage to the LEDs and/or controller

DO NOT DO ANY WIRING WITH THE BOX PLUGGED IN!

Making a branch is similar to making a jump, except you will be splicing sets of 3 wires together instead of sets of 2. This section will cover how to make a branch in the middle of a strand of lights going to a jumper cable.

Play Video

Things to Keep in Mind

  • Avoid branches whenever possible because you are not able to control branches independently of each other.

Example: You have five LEDs that branch after the second LED. The first two LEDs have their own unique ID, but the remaining 3 on each line after the branch share an ID. Telling LED #1 or #2 to turn blue will do just that and works as it should. If you want to turn LED #3, 4, or 5 blue then it will turn the LEDs of both branch lines to blue.

  • The lights of the branch should run in the same general direction as the rest of the lights. Otherwise, some animations may look odd.

Making a Branch

  1. Verify the controller box is not powered.
  2. Cut the black data cable to the length you need for the jump.
  3. On both ends of the cable, remove 2 inches of the outer jacket and strip the individual wires 1/4".
  4. Cut the LED strand in the middle of the two LEDs where you want to make the jump and separate the wires, stripping them 1/2" and then folding them back to give the connectors a bit more to grab on to.
  5. Using a butt connector, connect the following wires:
    Blue wire from one LED
    - Black wire from the data cable + blue wire from the other LED, twisted together.
  6. Using a 2nd butt connector, connect the following wires:
    Red wire from one LED
    - Red wire from the data cable + Red wire from the other LED, twisted together.
  7. Using a 3rd butt connector, connect the following wires:
    Green wire from one LED
    - Green wire from the data cable + Green wire from the other LED, twisted together.
  8. Use a heat gun or lighter to shrink the heat shrink on the connectors.

Note: If making a branch directly from the black data cable or gray injection cable, you will most likely need to use wago connectors due to the size of those wires. 

 WARNING

Failure to follow these instructions and wire everything correctly may result in a potential fire hazard and damage to the LEDs and/or controller

DO NOT DO ANY WIRING WITH THE BOX PLUGGED IN!

Due to voltage drop over the length of the run of LEDs, you will need to inject power in various places using the gray power injection cable. You need to run this cable alongside the LEDs inside the channel and then connect it at various points in your LEDs. The last LED of each strand has two additional wires coming out for the purpose of injection power.

Tip: If you tuck the cable underneath the LEDs in the channel, it will stay in the channel better.

  • Inject power at the end of every strand using the gray power injection cable.
  • Inject power at your very last LED. You will probably have extra LEDs you need to cut off.

Injecting Power at tne end of Each Strand

Play Video
  1. Verify the controller box is not powered
  2. Run the injection cable alongside the LEDs inside the channel and cut it at the required length.
  3. On both sides of the cut, remove 2 inches of the outer jacket from the gray injection cable and strip the wires 3/8 inch.
  4. Separate and strip the black and red wires coming off the last LED of the strand 3/8 inch.
  5. Using a wago connector, connect the following wires:
    - Black wire from the gray injection cable and Black wire from the LED strand, twisted together
    - Black wire from the remaining gray injection cable
  6. Using a 2nd wago connector, connect the following wires:
    - Red wire from the gray injection cable and Red wire from the LED strand, twisted together
    - Red wire from the remaining white/gray injection cable
  7. Repeat this at the end of every strand.

Note: If you want to waterproof this connection, you can put some heat shrink over the connectors. If it doesn't close tightly around the wires, use some pliers to squeeze it closed. 

You can also use heat shrink butt connectors instead of Wagos. Make sure you twist the wires together tightly so that they fit inside the connector.

Injectin Power at your Final LED

Play Video
  1. Verify the controller box is not powered and plug the white/gray injection cable into the box.
  2. Run the injection cable alongside the LEDs inside the channel and cut it at the length needed to connect it to your last LED.
  3. Remove 2 inches of the outer jacket from the injection cable and strip the individual wires 1/4".
  4. Cut the LED wires in the middle between your last LED and the next unnecessary LED.
  5. Separate and strip all but the green wire 1/2", then fold them over so there is more wire for the connector to grab.
  6. Using a butt connector, connect the following wires:
    - Black wire from the white/gray injection cable
    - Blue wire from the LED strand
  7. Using a 2nd butt connector, connect the following wires:
    - Red wire from the white/gray injection cable
    - Red wire from the LED strand

Do not connect two kits together with any wiring!

If you are using to controllers and want to sync them together:

  1. Connect both controllers to your WiFi network.
  2. Go into Config -> Sync Interfaces
  3. Make sure both controllers have the same ports and are on the same sync groups.
  4. Press the sync button on the main screen of WLED on both controllers.

Now when you change colors, brightness, and effects on one controller, it will also change it on the 2nd controller.

 

In order for the effects to work correctly, you will need to configure them a bit differently in Config --> LED Preferences. Here are a few examples of how to do so:

Now that all the lights should be set up correctly, it's time to try them out. Because WLED is an open-source piece of software that we do not own, our documentation on its use will be lacking. The video below goes over the basics of how to use WLED such as setting colors, effects, and timers.

Links to WLED Documentation

WLED Wiki - Here you can find documentation for WLED and how to do more advanced things with it.

List of Effects and Color Palletes

Creating Segments

Connecting to Alexa

Need Help?

Visit our help center to view troubleshooting guides or submit a support ticket.